9th December 2016

Another rainy day in Alice two days ago with no chance of it clearing up until yesterday so we opted to use our special pressie again and splash out on something fun – a room at the Double Tree by Hilton complete with two double beds and a bath with a complimentary check in double chocolate fudge cookie.  Taking the opportunity to read my trashier than trash novel I picked up at the local Salvo store (together with a trash Danielle Steele and a serious John Grisham – I can’t totally zone out!), I cracked a cold beer, soaked my little self for a good hour and toned my blonde whilst completely absorbed by the muscular torso and wild, long black hair of Jesse Yellow Thunder and the devilishly handsome Ravenhawk.  Bliss.

We had explored the Alice sights – the next of the Telegraph Stations complete with a nice 1.2 kilometre walk, the Alice Springs Desert Park (fantastic family attraction complete with a Nocturnal House to blow your mind – Miss 12 was in awe at the Thorny Devils and both girls fell in love with the Bilby’s), a fantastic bird display, dingoes, emu’s and red kangaroos with rippling muscles rivalling those of Arnold Schwarzenegger. The highlight though was an amazing Cultural talk by one of the Indigenous guides.  He was so passionate and proud – and we found it fascinating that Indigenous Culture had worked out the concept of genetics long before whites worked out you shouldn’t marry your cousin (enter the story of how he presented to Prince Charles – and left that bit out!).  He was excited his children were growing up with two cultures – essentially creating a third line of destiny between that of the old ways and those of the new.  He was wonderful.

Lunch at the only Vietnamese restaurant in Alice – we were the only ones there – was really cool.  I had seen it on some random SBS show and found the owners story fascinating.  He was a refugee and had come to Australia from Vietnam via a Hong Kong camp with many others, and was the only one, together with his wife, to remain in Alice.  What they have created is amazing – a market garden flourishing in the desert and a gorgeous restaurant that is incredibly popular with the locals. A timely story to consider the positive ways in which refugees can contribute to our lives.

A walk to the lookout, stop in at Kmart so Miss 10 could buy new headphones (so funny to think that the headphones we wore with our old school Walkman are now back in vogue) and a rush on Coles and we were off to nigh nighs.

A comfy sleep and another shower the next morning (have to take the chance whilst it’s there) we were ready to rock.

The next adventure was the West Mac Donnell Ranges for four days, so off we toddled to the first stop – John Flynn’s Grave.  JF was the man who started the Royal Flying Doctor Service – he was passionate about bring medical services to the bush – and succeeded!  The stone on his grave was rather controversial as the original stone had been taken from Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) without permission – many years later, it was replaced with a different stone and the original was taken back to the land.  Onwards to Simpson Gap.  Two walks later and we were awestruck by the beauty of the Gap.  The colours, the towering rock walls, the peaceful surrounds – images don’t do it justice at all.

Our next stop was to be Standley Chasm, however after a few cars had flashed us and an Ambulance had gone past us heading back to Alice, we were flagged down by the local constabulary as there had been an accident.  They had stopped us as they had heard a noise coming from our truck on approach.  Jumping out we were devastated to find out the rear left wheel had completely sheared off one of the six studs and the remaining five were on the verge of coming off.  The reality of what could have happened had we not been flagged down was sickening.  The cops were awesome (we even leant them our shovel to put dirt over the spilled fuel) and helped us secure the remaining studs and advised us where to go back in Alice to get it looked at.

Of course me being in Sales I started chattering away to the Senior Constable and learnt so much from him.  He had spent five years in Tennant Creek – a population of 5000 with a permanent station of 150 officers – yes – it’s that bad.  Each licenced premises has an officer in it at all times and a chronic domestic violence problem.  Though he didn’t like to call it that – it was predominantly alcohol related and basically, the most sober of the two won the battle and the drunk one ended up in hospital – aggravated assault.  This was followed up by a court appearance and no one is held accountable and it happens all over again.  It’s sobering and a reminder that we on the East coast know and understand absolutely fuck all about what is happening out here.  Following TC, Alice has 300 cops.  He left when his son was moving in to Year 10 – the school had 350 students registered but generally only 80 per day turned up – and as his son was so far behind the rest of the country, they had no choice but to move to Alice and get him a private tutor for over 12 months.  But he loves it out here as do all those we spoke to, including our mechanic who helped us out with the stud problem.  Those of us who have made the move from the city, generally, can’t and won’t go back.

It’s the little things that can be really funny out here – like a sign telling you to “watch out for people”, an ET Phone Home mobile booster station (it worked!), cartoon lizards and a giant statue of an Aboriginal woman and child in the middle of nowhere!

What we also noticed, is how nature has adapted to the heat – flat, waxy leaves on trees, pointy leaves, flowers that hold water, trees that lose branches so they don’t use as much energy – it’s all here – and it’s awesome to see it.

Once back on the road we made for Ellery Creek where we set up for the night.  It was so beautiful.  Whilst I sat looking over the ranges and watched the colours change every shade of red, orange and yellow, it was not lost on me that our cops name was Craig.  My Uncle’s name was Craig – we lost him 18 months ago to aggressive cancer – and he was an avid traveller and camper, a man who loved the outdoors, the bush, fishing and peace.  This trip is dedicated to him, and I know he is looking down on us and smiling that we are on this journey together, with him watching over us from above.